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Krampus, a devil like christmas figure marching in the Krampus parade

How to attend a Krampus Run in the Dolomites, South Tyrol: Kastelruth

Every two years, the quiet Alpine village of Kastelruth (Castelrotto) near Bolzano turns into something out of a nightmare—and trust me, you don’t want to miss it. Normally, it’s the kind of place where you linger over coffee and soak in Dolomite views. But during the Devil’s Course, the streets erupt with fire, smoke, and the deafening clang of bells as horned Krampus charge through in what’s considered one of the wildest Krampus runs in South Tyrol—second only to Toblach’s famous parade.

I went my very first winter living in Italy, and I thought I knew what I was getting into.

I didn’t. Not going to lie. It was WILD.

This wasn’t the cozy holiday folklore I’d brushed up against in Prague. This was pure chaos—Krampus rattling bells in my face, tugging at hats, chasing spectators, the crowd screaming in equal parts fear and delight. It was loud, it was raw, and it was absolutely unforgettable.

If you’re planning to go—and you should—you need a game plan. This isn’t the kind of event you just show up for. You’ll want to know:

  • What time to arrive so you don’t end up stuck in the back.
  • Where to stand for the best views (and the best chance to dodge or embrace a Krampus encounter).
  • How to grab a spot early before the crowds take over.
  • Where to stay nearby—whether you want the convenience of Bolzano or the full festive vibe of Kastelruth.

That’s exactly what this guide is here for, so keep reading before you make your plans.

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Krampus, a devil like christmas figure marching in the Krampus parade

At a Glance: Devil’s Course (Krampus Run) in Kastelruth

Best Resources: Dolomiti.it

Event Name: Devil’s Course (Teufellauf)

Location: Kastelruth (Castelrotto), South Tyrol, Italy

When: Every two years in early December (check Seiser Alm official site)

Nearest City: Bolzano (about 30 minutes by car)

Highlights: Parade of Krampus groups, bells, smoke, audience interaction, evening concert

Cost: Free (no ticket required)

Tip: Arrive early in the afternoon—spots along the parade route fill fast

Where is Kastelruth/Castelrotto in the Dolomites?

Castelrotto—known as Kastelruth in German—is a small alpine village in South Tyrol, perched just below the Alpe di Siusi plateau and about 30 minutes from Bolzano. It sits in the heart of the Dolomites’ Ladin region, where German and Italian culture blend in a way that feels both distinct and deeply local. Most travelers visit Castelrotto as a base for hiking or exploring the Seiser Alm in summer, but in early December the village transforms into something entirely different: a dramatic, lantern-lit backdrop for one of Italy’s most thrilling traditions, the Krampus Run. Its compact center, timbered buildings, and mountain silhouettes make it the kind of place where the folklore doesn’t feel performed—it feels rooted. If you’ve never been to South Tyrol before, Castelrotto is the perfect introduction to this region’s mythology, winter customs, and unmistakable Alpine character.

How to Use This Map:
Click the icon in the top left corner to see all the places I’ve pinned around the city— from cafés and museums to scenic viewpoints. You can turn layers on or off and click any pin to learn more about each spot. Want to keep it handy for your trip? Click the star next to the map’s title to save it to your Google account.

Then, open the Google Maps app, go to “Saved” → “Maps,” and you’ll see this map ready to guide you while you explore.

Who—or What—is Krampus?

In Alpine folklore, Krampus is the terrifying counterpart to St. Nicholas. While St. Nicholas rewards good children with gifts on December 6th, Krampus appears the night before—Krampusnacht—to frighten and punish those who misbehaved. He’s usually depicted as horned, fur-covered, with chains and a bundle of birch sticks.

The Krampus tradition has roots in pre-Christian Alpine customs and was later absorbed into Christian culture. Today, Krampus runs are living festivals where folklore, community, and pure spectacle collide.

You can read my rundown on who or what Krampus is here

@kimberlykepharttravels

CAN YOU BELIVE THEY HAND CARVE THESE MASKS? Krampuslauf was a blast! Kastelruth in South Tyrol italy throws a really great festival geared towards celebrating quite an awesome tradition! You have to go and just remember to have an open mind. #krampus #krampuslauf #kastelruth #krampusnacht #christmas #christmastiktok #christmasineurope #traveltips #travelguide

♬ Run, Rudolph Run – Chuck Berry

Where to Stay in South Tyrol

Choosing where to stay in South Tyrol depends on the kind of trip you want. If you’re visiting for winter festivals like the Castelrotto Krampus Run or planning to ski the Seiser Alm, the best places to stay in South Tyrol are the alpine villages around Alpe di Siusi, including Castelrotto, Siusi allo Sciliar, and Ortisei in Val Gardena.

These towns offer easy access to the Dolomites, traditional Tyrolean guesthouses, family-run hotels, wellness resorts with saunas and mountain views, and convenient connections to cable cars and bus routes. For travelers who want a central base for exploring the region’s Christmas markets, food traditions, and hiking trails, staying in Bolzano or Merano works beautifully—both cities combine walkability with a wide range of accommodations, from boutique hotels to budget-friendly stays. Whether you’re looking for a spa hotel in the Dolomites, a cozy mountain lodge near Seiser Alm, or a convenient base for day trips across South Tyrol, you’ll find plenty of options that make planning your trip effortless.

Use my map below to find a hotel close to the Krampus run in Castelruth

Experiencing the Devil’s Course in Kastelruth

The Devil’s Course is not just a parade—it’s an assault on the senses. LITERALLY. When I went, the quiet streets of Kastelruth transformed into a stage of smoke, fire, and noise. Groups of Krampus, called “passes,” surged through the town, each with their own costumes and characters.

Some were classic: towering wooden masks, curled horns, thick fur. Others were creative, with glowing eyes, mechanical features, or even smoke machines hidden in their costumes. The level of detail was astonishing.

But what struck me most was the energy. These Krampus don’t just march past politely. They rattle their bells right in your face, tug at hats, or chase people down the street. Children screamed, adults laughed nervously, and the entire crowd was swept up in the frenzy.

Between groups, a concert keeps the atmosphere alive. Music, fire effects, and shouting blend together, making it feel less like a parade and more like a festival where anything could happen.

A krampus with glowing eyes and long horns illuminated by a red light as fog swirls around it!

What Makes the Devil’s Course Unique

Unlike some Alpine Krampus runs where you simply watch from the sidelines, the Devil’s Course is immersive. The Krampus interacts with spectators, pulling people into the fun—or terror—depending on your point of view.

To keep things from spiraling out of control, each Krampus wears a number on their costume. This way, organizers can identify individuals if someone gets too aggressive or a fight breaks out. It’s chaotic, but there’s also a method behind it.

Another unique aspect is the concert woven into the event, giving it a celebratory vibe that balances the mayhem.

Tips for Attending the Devil’s Course

This is not an event where you can wing it. To enjoy yourself, planning ahead is key.

  1. Arrive Early
    Kastelruth is small, and the best spots go quickly. Plan to arrive by mid-afternoon. Many people combine it with the Bolzano Christmas Market earlier in the day, then head up the mountain for the evening.
  2. Eat Dinner First
    Restaurants fill up, and once you’ve staked your parade spot you won’t want to leave. Have an early dinner in Bolzano or in town well before the Krampus appear.
  3. Dress for Alpine Winter
    Standing outside for hours in December means layers, gloves, scarves, and hats. Trust me—you’ll thank yourself later.
  4. Expect Interaction
    Krampus will get close. If you’re not comfortable being touched, stand further back from the route.
  5. Plan for Traffic and Parking
    Driving is possible but traffic builds quickly. If you’re staying in Bolzano, check bus options, though note that service may be limited late at night.

Pairing the Devil’s Course with Bolzano’s Christmas Market

If you’re already in South Tyrol for the holiday season, you should absolutely combine this event with the Bolzano Christmas Market, one of the most famous in Italy. Bolzano’s Piazza Walther transforms into a winter wonderland of mulled wine, roasted chestnuts, handmade ornaments, and traditional Tyrolean foods.

Here’s the perfect pairing:

  • Morning to Afternoon: Wander the market, shop for gifts, and have lunch in Bolzano.
  • Afternoon: Drive or bus up to Kastelruth to secure your parade spot.
  • Evening: Watch the Krampus run and concert, then head back down with your ears ringing and your adrenaline pumping.
A young child crying, wearing a white shirt, showing strong emotions indoors.
Photo by Anna Shvets

Is the Devil’s Course Family-Friendly?

It depends. Children are welcome, but parents should know this is not a gentle parade. Krampus are loud, aggressive in a playful way, and very interactive. Some kids love the excitement; others are terrified.

If you bring kids, stay further back, consider ear protection, and be ready to step out if it becomes overwhelming.

Why You Shouldn’t Miss It

For me, the Devil’s Course wasn’t just a holiday event—it was a cultural baptism into Alpine life. This wasn’t a performance staged for tourists; it was raw, real, and deeply tied to local tradition. You could feel the pride in the craftsmanship of the masks, the energy of the crowd, and the sheer force of history roaring through the streets.

Travel often delivers beauty and comfort, but sometimes the experiences that stick with you are the ones that push you outside your expectations. The Devil’s Course is one of those. I arrived thinking I’d see a quirky folklore parade. I left with my ears still ringing, my heart racing, and a memory I’ll carry with me forever.


Is the Devil’s Course free?
Yes, attending the parade is free—no tickets required.

How often does it take place?
Every two years in early December.

Where is Kastelruth?
It’s about 30 minutes by car from Bolzano, in South Tyrol, northern Italy.

Is it safe?
Yes, though the Krampus can be rough in a playful way. Each wears a number for accountability, and organizers keep watch.

Can children attend?
Yes, but expect noise, smoke, and some startling interactions. If your child is easily frightened, it may not be the best fit.

How is it different from the Toblach Krampus run?
The Toblach run is larger and more famous, but Kastelruth is wilder and more immersive, with heavy audience interaction and an intimate town atmosphere.

Final Thoughts

If you’re visiting northern Italy in December, don’t stop at the Christmas markets. Make time for the Devil’s Course in Kastelruth, one of the most unforgettable Krampus runs in South Tyrol. Arrive early, bundle up, and brace yourself for folklore that leaps off the page and into the streets.

The Devil’s Course isn’t cozy or polished—it’s loud, messy, and just a little terrifying. And that’s exactly what makes it magical.

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2 Comments

  1. What I love about the Dolomites is that they’re beautiful in every season. Summer looks perfect for hiking, autumn brings all the deep colors, winter feels like a fairy tale, and spring seems full of fresh air and wildflowers.

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