Chasing Pączki in Kraków: A Tłusty Czwartek Adventure

If you’re lucky enough to find yourself in Poland on Tłusty Czwartek, get ready to indulge in one of the country’s sweetest traditions. Fat Thursday is the day where calories don’t count, and it’s all about pączki (pronounced “poonch-kee”)—Poland’s beloved deep-fried donuts.

I still remember the first time I learned about Tłusty Czwartek. I had just arrived at my Polish language class on base, and our instructor, Kasia, was already inside waiting for us with a box of warm, freshly made donuts. That entire lesson revolved around the holiday’s significance in Polish culture, with plenty of time dedicated to discussing the tradition—and, of course, eating pączki. I took one bite, slowly finished it off, and then Kasia looked at me with a mischievous smile and said, “Well, go on, have another!” And just like that, I was hooked—on both the tradition and the delicious donuts.

Check out more of my blog posts about Poland⬇️

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• Malbork Castle: Everything You Need to Know
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What Is Pączki?

Pączki are a Polish treat that have become synonymous with Tłusty Czwartek. These delicious donuts come in all kinds of flavors, but they’re always filled with something tasty, whether it’s jam, cream, or custard. The dough is rich and buttery, deep-fried to perfection, and then dusted with powdered sugar. Think of them as the ultimate comfort food—crispy on the outside, warm and gooey on the inside.

The Types of Pączki You’ll Encounter

While there are plenty of varieties to explore, let’s start with the basics:

1. Traditional Pączki with Rose Jam
   The classic! These are filled with a sweet, slightly tart rose jam, which gives them an aromatic kick that perfectly complements the sweet dough.
2. Pączki with Plum Jam
   This variety takes on a fruity vibe, with the rich plum filling adding a deeper, more intense flavor. Perfect for those who want a more unique spin on the classic.
3. Pączki with Custard
   For those who love a creamy, dreamy filling, custard-filled pączki are the way to go. Think of it like biting into a donut and getting a little custard surprise—pure joy.
4. Pączki with Alcoholic Fillings (like Vodka or Liquor)
   In Poland, they get a little adventurous! Some pączki come with a boozy filling—vodka or fruit liquor—that adds a fun twist to the day’s festivities. Cheers!
5. Pączki with Sweet Cream
   Think of this as the light, fluffy version of the donut—filled with smooth sweet cream for a perfect balance of indulgence and lightness.

The Fun Behind the Day

Tłusty Czwartek is not just about eating; it’s a day to celebrate before the sacrifices of Lent. While the rest of Europe might be busy with their own food traditions (like Mardi Gras or Carnival), Poland has turned Fat Thursday into a full-blown donut party. And let’s be real, who wouldn’t want to join in on a national holiday dedicated to eating donuts?

On Tłusty Czwartek, you’ll see Polish bakeries packed with locals and tourists alike, each holding their own box of pączki to take home or enjoying them on the spot with coffee. It’s an explosion of sugar and joy. Don’t be surprised if you see people stuffing their faces with pączki in public—you’re expected to eat as many as your stomach can handle (or at least try!).

Chasing Pączki in Kraków

This year, I decided to book a ticket and head to Poland for Tłusty Czwartek. Ever since my last visit to Kraków, I’d been craving another pączek, and what better way to satisfy that craving than by arriving in the city on the very day of the celebration? My friend Aleksandra happened to be in town for business, so we decided to go pączki hopping.

A Sweet Start to Tłusty Czwartek at Cukiernia Pod Arkadami

My first stop on Tłusty Czwartek was Cukiernia Pod Arkadami, and I could already feel the anticipation building as I navigated Kraków’s streets. The walk from my hotel was effortless—I knew where I was going, and I knew exactly what awaited me at the end of my route. As I crossed the final street, the last few hundred meters in sight, I noticed a line spilling out the door.

I had been warned about this. On days like today, with Tłusty Czwartek in full swing, long lines are a given. But honestly? That only made me more excited.

I took my place in the queue, clutching my money in hand, and within minutes, I was at the front. 7.50 PLN per pączek—I ordered two, one for myself and one for my friend Aleksandra. My Polish was broken, but the women behind the counter humored me, continuing the conversation. A small victory.

With my pączki secured, I didn’t just walk back to the apartment—I practically ran. Aleksandra was at a doctor’s appointment, so I sent her a text:

“I got the first two of the day! I’ll leave one at the apartment for you!”

I arrived home, shed my jacket, and sat down, ready to savor the moment. The first bite—oh my gosh. The glaze melts on my lips, and I taste a hint of lemon in the still-warm dough. Then, the rose jam hits—thicker than I’m used to, yet delicate and not overly sweet. Absolute perfection. I finish it off with a happy dance because at that moment, all is right in the world.

Onward to Cukiernia Michałek

But Tłusty Czwartek isn’t a one-stop affair. I pull out my phone and decide where to go next. It’s easy—just follow someone on the street carrying a box of pączki, and you’ll find the next best spot. Cukiernia Michałek is my next target, a leisurely 20-minute walk from my hotel. Perfect—I need to walk off the sugar rush anyway.

I head out, descending what feels like a million stairs, questioning my life choices. Crossing into Kraków’s Old Town, I see St. Mary’s Basilica peeking over the rooftops. I cut past Sukiennice, veer onto a side street, and stroll through Planty Park, the city’s “green lung.” One last tram crossing, and I’m almost there.

Then, I see it—the longest line I have ever witnessed for a single pastry. Apparently, everyone in Kraków had the same idea. The queue stretches down the block.

Just as I take my place, Aleksandra texts: “I’ll meet you at Michałek.”

By the time she arrives, it starts raining. We stand there, unwavering, soaked, determined. An hour passes. The women behind the counter look exhausted, churning out pączki as fast as humanly possible.

When we reach the front, we order two. The cashier stares at us, bewildered.

“Tylko dwa?” (Only two?)

“Tak!” (Yes!)

She shrugs, hands over the pastries, and we step outside, peeling open the packaging. They’re still warm, the glaze dripping, the rose jam shining through each bite. Heaven. Again.

Tears form in my eyes—it’s that good.

As we stand there, savoring every last bite, I can’t help but smile at the sight of people all around us carrying little packages of joy. That’s what Tłusty Czwartek is all about—a citywide indulgence, a shared love for a simple, perfect treat.

Would I stand in an hour-long line in the rain for a pączek again?

Without a doubt.

Best Places to Get Pączki in Poland

If you’re looking for the best places to snag some of these sweet treats, Poland has you covered! Here are a few top spots where you can indulge in the finest pączki, keep in mind that you can reliably find pączki no matter where you are in Poland at Dobra Pączkarnia.

This chain has locations in many towns and cities, offering fresh, delicious pączki throughout the year. Grocery stores also stock them regularly, providing a convenient option. But if you’re looking for something a bit less commercialized, the bakeries mentioned above—and many more like them—are the way to go.

1. Cukiernia Pawłowicz (Warsaw)
   Known for its premium quality pastries, Cukiernia Pawłowicz is a must-visit in Warsaw. Their pączki are a local favorite, with a perfectly balanced dough and a variety of fillings, including the traditional rose jam and more adventurous options like liquor-filled versions.
2. Blikle (Warsaw)
   One of the most famous pastry shops in Warsaw, Blikle has been serving up pączki since 1869. Their pączki are a historical and tasty treat, made with love and attention to detail. Don’t miss the chance to grab one of their signature rose jam-filled pączki.
3. Cukiernia Sowa (Various Locations)
   Cukiernia Sowa is a beloved chain with locations all across Poland, including in cities like Kraków, Wrocław, and Warsaw. Known for their consistent quality and large variety of fillings, their pączki are light and flavorful. If you’re not sure what to try, go for the classic rose jam or the more modern chocolate-filled options.
4. Zdolni (Wrocław)
   In Wrocław, Zdolni is an excellent place to grab a pączek. Their creations are perfect for those who enjoy a mix of tradition and innovation. While the rose jam filling is always a good choice, try their unique offerings like caramelized apple or chocolate-orange-filled pączki.

Wrapping it up: Eat pączki every day of the year!

Tłusty Czwartek in Kraków was everything I had hoped for and more. From the long lines filled with eager donut lovers to the sheer joy of biting into a warm, freshly made pączek, the experience was nothing short of magical. If you ever find yourself in Poland on this special day, do yourself a favor—embrace the sugar rush, follow the scent of fresh dough, and indulge in as many pączki as your heart desires. Because on Tłusty Czwartek, there are no regrets—only sweet, fried perfection.

And if you’re reading this outside of Fat Thursday, don’t worry—you don’t have to wait a whole year to get your pączki fix. Many bakeries across Poland make them year-round, so you can indulge in these sweet treats anytime you like!

Check out my reel on Instagram about my day I had chasing Paczki in Krakow