The Best Fall Hike in the Dolomites: Croda da Lago + Lago Federa
If you’re looking for a Dolomites hike that delivers golden larches, mirror lakes, mountain magic, and a cozy rifugio stay, this is the one.
The Croda da Lago hike to Lago Federa is one of the best fall hikes in Italy — especially in mid to late October, when the larch trees glow gold and the crowds thin. In this guide, I’ll walk you through:
- The exact hiking route I took
- How to book Rifugio Croda da Lago
- What it’s like to stay overnight
- Alternate routes, sunrise tips, and more
This Post Pairs Well With:
My Favorite Hotels in the Dolomites: Places I’ve Loved Staying
Lago di Sorapis Hiking Guide
Five Hikes Near Cortina d’Ampezzo That Are Less Crowded
Dolomites Easy Day Hikes: Val Venegia and Sentiero Marcio
Strada delle 52 Gallerie: How to Get There and What to Expect
A Solo Female Hiker’s Guide to Tre Cime di Lavaredo
How to Get to Forra del Lupo: Your Guide to the Wolf’s Gorge in Trentino
Croda da Lago / Lago Federa Hike at a Glance
Distance: 5.4 mi / 8.7 km (short route) or 8.1 mi / 13 km (long loop)
Elevation Gain: 435 m short / 840 m long
Time:3–4 hours (short) / 5–6 hours (loop)
Difficulty: Intermediate — steady climbs, sure-footedness helpful
Best Season: Mid to late October for larch color
Starting Point: Ponte di Ru Curto
Rifugio: Rifugio Croda da Lago / G. Palmieri
Where to Stay in Cortina Before The Hike
I based myself in Cortina d’Ampezzo before the hike to acclimate and explore nearby trails.
Hotel Nord (My Base)
North side of Cortina
Single room with views of Sorapiss and Croda da Lago
No A/C (not an issue in October), close to Hotel Des Alpes for dinner
Hotel Piccolo Pocol (Budget Pick)
Close to trailhead
Triple rooms, clean, good breakfast, sauna included
Other Great Options:
B&B Hotel Passo Tre Croci – Budget-friendly, good for pairing with Sorapis or Tre Cime
Rosapetra Spa Resort – 5-star boutique with award-winning spa (yes, it’s that nice)
What to read next: my favorite hotels in the Dolomites that I have stayed at, I update it regularly
How to Get to the Croda da Lago Trailhead
By Car:
- Trailhead: Ponte di Ru Curto (aka Ponte de Rocurto)
- Along SP638, between Passo Giau and Pocol
- Free roadside parking, including overnight — I confirmed with the rifugio
- Pro Tip: Avoid parking on the grassy area — it’s protected
By Bus:
- Line 30/4 Dolomiti Bus runs June to September
- Stops at Pian del Pantan (right at the trailhead)
- Not frequent — check the schedule carefully
Pro tip: If you’re staying in Cortina and want to mix it up, you could bus one way to Ponte di Ru Curto, hike up to Lago Federa, and then walk all the way back to Cortina on Trail 432 (about 6.2 km down to Parcheggio Parú de Col in Campo di Sotto).
Hiking Up (Trail 437 → Trail 434)
The trailhead at Ponte di Ru Curto sits at around 1,700 meters, marked by a large information board and a gravel pull-off for parking. If you’re driving in, this is where you’ll leave your car. Overnight parking is allowed — something I confirmed directly with staff at Rifugio Croda da Lago — but be mindful not to park on the grassy areas, which are protected.
Trail 437 starts out simply enough, dipping into a shady forest and crossing two small wooden bridges over the Ru Curto stream. It feels quiet and unassuming at first, but don’t let that lull you — this trail gains elevation steadily.
As you climb, the terrain changes. The forest grows thinner, the grade sharper. The trail skirts the edge of a narrow gorge with big drops, then crosses the Ru Formin stream via another small bridge. Shortly after, you’ll arrive at Cason di Formin, a trail junction at the base of Val Formin. This is where our group split. Two of us continued up Trail 434 toward the rifugio. The others looped toward Forcella Ambrizzola, a more exposed and demanding route that reconnects near Lago Federa.
From the junction, Trail 434 picks up elevation quickly through zigzags in scree and larch forest. It’s steep, but not technical — and along the way, a small side trail leads to one of the best natural viewpoints in the Cortina area. You’ll get a sweeping view of Cinque Torri, Nuvolau, Tofana di Rozes, Monte Cristallo, and the Sorapiss Group. This spot alone would be worth the effort — and it’s not even the main event.
First Glimpse of Lago Federa
After about 45 minutes (longer, if you stop to catch your breath and take photos — which you should), the climb softens. The trail opens into alpine pastureland. The larches here, in mid-October, were electric gold, lit by low afternoon sun.
Then came what I had been waiting for: Lago Federa.
The lake sits in a basin beneath Becco di Mezzodì, perfectly framed by larches and limestone. It mirrors everything — the jagged peaks, the flame-colored trees, the changing sky. I’d seen a hundred photos before this hike, but none of them captured how quiet it felt to arrive here. The air was cool, the light was sharp, and for a few minutes, no one else was around.
From the lakeshore, the trail continues just a short distance up to Rifugio Croda da Lago / G. Palmieri, perched above the lake. You can drop your pack at the rifugio and loop back down to explore the lakeside later — or linger here first if you’re arriving closer to sunset.
Overnight at Rifugio Croda da Lago / G. Palmieri
There are two kinds of rifugio stays in the Dolomites: the ones that feel like a place to crash after a long day, and the ones that become part of the experience itself. This was the latter.
The rifugio is set at just over 2,000 meters with views of the Cristallo, Sorapiss, and Antelao groups. We checked in around noon and were lucky to get Room 5, a 6-bed dorm that felt quiet and tucked away. You can rent linens, but I brought my own linens and was glad I did.
The check-in process includes choosing your dinner and dessert in advance. At first, this felt overly structured — but after a long day of hiking, it was a relief to know exactly when and what I’d be eating.
For lunch, I ordered goulash with dumplings, a cappuccino, and a bottle of still water. It was simple but comforting — and after climbing in cool October air, it hit the spot. The rifugio gets busy during lunch hours as hikers pass through or stop for a meal before heading back down, but things get quieter in the late afternoon.
How to Book Your Stay at Rifugio Croda da Lago / G. Palmieri
Booking a stay couldn’t have been easier. Back in early May, when I knew I wanted to catch peak autumn larches, I went straight to their website and locked in my reservation.
The rifugio is typically open from early June through late October, snow permitting.
Reservations can be made directly online or by email at [email protected]. I found the process refreshingly straightforward compared to other Dolomites rifugios.
Prices are clearly listed:
- Overnight stay: €32 per person (€25.60 for CAI/DAV members)
- Half board (dinner, bed, breakfast): €73 (€58.50 for members)
- Breakfast only: €14
- Hot shower: €7 (25 liters)
- Sauna: €20 per person (towel included)
For the views and convenience of staying right above Lago Federa, the price felt more than fair.
The Sauna and the Social Side of Hut Life
One of the more unique features of Rifugio Croda da Lago is the wood-fired sauna, available to reserve in advance. It’s a small structure, tucked beside the rifugio, and it feels like something out of a dream — eucalyptus steam, cold air, and views of the lake just a short walk away.
Outside the sauna is a cold plunge pool. Two of my friends jumped in without hesitation. I dipped my arms in and immediately regretted it. Still, the heat, the laughter, and the shared exhaustion from the trail made for one of my favorite nights in the mountains. We played cards (Phase 10), swapped stories with other travelers in the dorm, and shared our pick from the homemade grappa list, which includes nearly every flavor you can imagine.
It’s this kind of evening that reminds you why you stay in rifugi: not just for the proximity to nature, but for the unexpected community that forms in high places.
Sunrise at Lago Federa
We went to bed early, hoping for clear skies at dawn. In October, sunrise is late enough that you don’t have to wake up at a punishing hour — but it’s still cold, and there’s often fog to contend with.
We walked back down to the lake just before first light. At first, everything was muted. Then the sun crested over the ridges, the fog lifted, and the larches on the opposite bank lit up gold. Becco di Mezzodì glowed pink and orange, perfectly mirrored in the still water.
If you want a more peaceful experience, skip the main trail and walk up the hill behind the rifugio — it gives you better framing and fewer people. And if you’re tempted to fly a drone, don’t. There’s an active helipad nearby, and it’s also just… not the vibe. Respect the quiet. Let the place do the talking.
Hiking Down (or Taking the Jeep)
The hike back down to Ponte di Ru Curto retraces the same trail — Trail 434 back to 437. It’s a steady descent that’s easy to follow but can feel tough on the knees after back-to-back elevation days.
If you’re dealing with sore joints, low energy, or just want to save yourself for another hike, there’s a jeep transfer service available directly from the rifugio. My friend took it after recovering from knee surgery and said it was one of the best decisions of the trip. The driver was kind, pointed out a few hidden lakes, and dropped her right back at the trailhead.
Alternate Routes to Croda da Lago + Lago Federa
This hike is part of a much larger web of trails — and depending on your goals, you can make it as easy or as challenging as you want.
- Forcella Ambrizzola – Lago Federa loop from Salieto This is the route two members of my group took. It adds distance, views, and a bit of drama — especially in the descent, which includes scree that can feel unstable. If you’re confident in alpine terrain and want a bigger loop, it’s a great option.
- From Lago di Pianozes to Lago Federa (via CAI trail 432): If you want a car-free option, start right from Cortina and hike all the way up to Lago Federa via Trail 432. It’s longer (~6.2 km), with more elevation gain (~828 m), but more gradual.
- Dolomites World Heritage Geotrail from Rifugio Croda da Lago: The trail around the rifugio is part of the Dolomites World Heritage Geotrail, a curated network highlighting geological formations across the region. This is where you’ll learn how ancient coral reefs and volcanic activity created the dramatic peaks you’re now hiking through. It connects to Rifugio Città di Fiume and makes for a great multi-day option if you’re linking hut stays.
Best Time to Visit Lago Federa (It’s especially nice in the fall)
Most blogs list this as a summer hike, but that misses the point. October is when this place comes alive.
The larches turn gold between mid and late October, and while the exact timing varies from year to year, this window is reliably magical. Some years, snow arrives early and cuts the season short. Other years, it holds off and gives you an extra week of crisp, clear hiking.
If you’re aiming for color and quiet, this is it.
Just be prepared:
- Expect shorter daylight hours and fewer people — which, honestly, is a gift
- Bring layers — mornings are cold, especially at sunrise
- Pack a headlamp if you’re shooting golden hour
- Book the rifugio early — fall weekends fill quickly
Commonly Asked Questions About Hiking to Rifugio Croda Da Lago
It depends. The main route to Lago Federa via Trail 437 → 434 is intermediate, with steady elevation gain and a few steep sections, but it’s well-marked and not technical. If you’re reasonably fit and comfortable hiking 3–4 hours with a pack, you can do it — especially in good weather. The longer Forcella Ambrizzola loop is better for experienced hikers.
Yes — and October is the best time to go if you want to see peak fall colors. The larch trees turn golden from mid to late October, and the trail is usually clear of snow until the end of the month (depending on the year). Just check the weather forecast, pack warm layers, and book the rifugio early — this is a popular time.
Absolutely. Rifugio Croda da Lago is one of the most popular hut stays in the Dolomites, especially during fall foliage season. You can book directly through their website or via email. Book at least a couple of months ahead if you’re planning for October weekends.
Yes — and it’s a big part of the experience. The rifugio serves lunch, dinner (with dessert), and breakfast. The menu includes hearty dishes like goulash, pasta, and dumplings. You’ll select your dinner at check-in. There’s also an extensive homemade grappa list if you want to unwind after your hike.
Yes — Rifugio Croda da Lago sits just above the lake and is open from early June through late October (snow permitting). Staying overnight gives you access to sunrise, the sauna, and a more peaceful experience once day-hikers leave.
Yes. The trail is well-marked, and during the season, you’ll encounter other hikers — but it’s rarely crowded. I hiked with a group, but I would feel comfortable doing it solo, especially on the shorter route. Just make sure someone knows your itinerary and bring proper gear (layers, headlamp, map/GPS).
There are no facilities along the trail, but you’ll have access to bathrooms, meals, and drinks at the rifugio. Bring at least 1.5L of water for the hike in, especially if doing the longer loop.
No. You’ll need to park at Ponte di Ru Curto and hike in. There is an optional jeep shuttle from the rifugio back to the trailhead if you don’t want to hike down the next day — ask at check-in to reserve a spot.
You’ll fall in love with the Hike to Lago Federa
This wasn’t just a scenic hike or a great overnight — it was something I had been dreaming about since a winter guide once mentioned it in passing. It stayed on my list for years. And when I finally made it happen, it was even better than expected.
There are flashier trails in the Dolomites. There are higher peaks, longer distances, more Instagram-famous spots. But this one — Lago Federa, Croda da Lago, the gold of the larches, the warmth of the rifugio, the hush of sunrise — this one stays with you.
Planning this hike or done it before? I’d love to hear from you in the comments — and if you’re looking for more Dolomites adventures, here are my top picks: Lago di Sorapis, Hiking Tre Cime as a solo female hiker
