What to Expect while staying at Rifugios in the Dolomites
The most rewarding aspect of hiking in the Italian Dolomites isn’t solely the stunning vistas but also the huts, or Rifugio encountered along the trail. These huts are known for their hearty food, friendly atmosphere and stunning views. If you have the chance to undertake a hut-to-hut hike in the Dolomites, you’re guaranteed an extraordinary experience. A common question I receive is, “What is it like to stay in a rifugio?”I always respond with enthusiasm, but I’ve noticed some folks are a bit wary about the idea of staying in a Rifugio. So, I’m taking it upon myself to demystify the experience with a thorough explanation.
Apart from the guide provided by Bookatrekking, the company I booked with, I was uncertain about how to prepare for my stay at the Rifugi. Having spent four days on the Alta Via 1 (look out for my upcoming blog post) and the Alta Via 2, I felt compelled to compile a thorough guide for anyone apprehensive about staying in a rifugio. Believe me, I had my doubts—sharing sleeping quarters with strangers is intimidating. What if my snoring was too loud? Or what if I got a talkative roommate who just wouldn’t quiet down? Not ideal!
Without further ado, here’s what you can expect while staying at a Rifugio. Use the table of contents to navigate and find the information you need!
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What in the world is a Rifugio?
By definition, a Rifugio (plural is Rifugi) is a high-elevation mountain hut strategically positioned along hiking trails. Rifugios are rustic shelters that provide refuge for hikers, mountaineers, and outdoor enthusiasts. They assist with keeping all groups of people safe in the mountains.
Imagine hiking for a full 8 hours and seeking solace in a rifugio that offers hearty traditional meals, and a ton of camaraderie. There is NOTHING better! The best part is anyone can stop at a Rifugio to get a warm hearty meal during their hike in the Italian Dolomites
History
The origins date back to the 19th century as basic shelters for shepherds, hunters, and alpinists. Initially, these ranged from simple stone huts to rustic wooden cabins. Eventually, Alpine clubs took the lead in constructing rifugios to support climbers and hikers.
However, because the Dolomites were on the front line of World War I, many rifugios were destroyed and damaged. Consequently, there was a huge rebuilding effort that focused on expanding the hut system throughout the Dolomites. Additionally, there is a lot of unique history regarding WWI and some of the Rifugios.
Take for example, Rifugio Achille Papa which lies at the top of the Strada Delle 52 Galleries. This rifugio was built in 1921 on what remained of a brick shelter from the barracks of the First World War, located away from Austrian artillery fire.
How Many are there?
Can you believe that there are over 1,000 rifugios scattered throughout the Dolomites? So this means that ultimately YOU can plan multiday routes that connect one Refugio to the next.
Rifugios are typically managed by associations like Club Alpino Italiano (CAI) The Alpine Club is one of the major contributors to the Rifugio network. Believe it or not, you can even get a discount if you are a part of the Alpine club! Check out how to do that here. There are benefits to joining as it’s not just about discounts but you can also obtain access to Insurance coverage, exclusive publications and access to locations.
In Sud Tirol, the Alpenverein Sudtirol (AVS) is the association that manages several rifugios in the region. If you’d like to find out more information, check this link out here
Rifugio Names
You may have noticed if you started planning your trip that rifugios often go by three different names in parts of the Dolomites. This is just a mere reflection of the region’s cultural diversity and history.
When it comes to the names of rifugios here’s what you can expect, typically names are in Italian and they are used in official documents, maps, and signage. You’ll see the huge influence of german, due to the Austro-Hungarian Empire and many people hold on to the lasting heritage from the borders expanding and then shrinking. Lastly, ladin which is spoken in the Dolomites and reflects the heritage of the people here. It shares similarities with other regional languages like Romansh (spoken in Switzerland) and Friulian (spoken in NE Italy) Ladin can be heard in areas like Trentino, Belluno, and South Tyrol.
It’s such a unique and amazing thing to learn about and I am still floored by it. It’s what makes this area so special. If you listen closely you can even hear Ladin being spoken by locals!
A good example of names in all languages:
Rifugio Firenze/ Regensburgerhütte /Utia de Ncisles
Rifugio Genova/ Schlüterhütte
So when planning make sure that you keep in mind that rifugios may appear under any of their two- three names!
Planning Your Stay: When and Where
When?
Remember that Rifugios are typically open for stays during specific seasons, usually from mid-June to late September.
With that in mind, if you’re planning to tackle a significant trail such as Alta Via 1 and 2, it’s crucial to act swiftly with reservations. The popular Rifugios tend to book up quickly. Securing spots for larger groups can be more challenging compared to solo travelers.
Begin planning and consider alternative options too. Lagazuoi is often fully booked quickly, but remember, there are other Rifugios on the Alta Via 1 that you can reserve during your journey!
Where?
Deciding where to stay depends on your planned route. It’s a good idea to spread out a map and plan thoroughly. If you’re trekking the AV1 or AV2, it’s wise to research which Rifugios meet your requirements. That’s why I opted for a booking agency to handle my accommodations. Bookatrekking is a solid option; they offer budget-friendly choices that cater to your needs, and their customer service is commendable.
How to Book Your Rifugio Stay
For those feeling anxious about planning, it’s important to note that there isn’t a centralized reservation system. In many cases, you’ll need to directly email the hut to secure a booking. However, some Rifugios do offer an online booking platform. It should be noted that when you send an email, the hut manager might take some time to respond. Spontaneous planning isn’t always possible, and I understand that can be frustrating for those of us who are impatient. Bookatrekking did take a moment to reply, and during that time, I was worried that my Alta Via 1 trip wouldn’t happen.
Some rifugios have a booking system online. You can actually go to their website and book there. Here are a few examples:
Deposit and Confirmation: Some rifugios may require a deposit for popular dates. Confirmation emails are not always standard—just show up, and your bed should be waiting. I noticed with my reservations, I had a booking number or it was under my name.
Planning for Groups of 10? If so, it’s important to contact the Rifugio in advance. Additionally, be aware that there may be specific exclusions or inclusions for larger groups. Therefore, reaching out beforehand ensures that you have all the necessary information and can make appropriate arrangements. Moreover, this proactive step helps the Rifugio prepare for your arrival, ensuring a smoother experience for everyone involved.
Room Options and Amenities at Rifugios
When I reserved my trip, I was uncertain about what staying at a Rifugio would entail. For instance, would I have to share space with others? Additionally, is it co-ed? Furthermore, is a private room available? Wait a minute, what are the bathroom facilities like at a Rifugi? These questions were swirling in my mind.
Typically, Rifugi feature a standard layout that includes a bar area, dining room, shoe room, bathrooms, and bedrooms.
Dormitory-Style Rooms
Be prepared for shared accommodations with bunk beds, where privacy comes at a premium. Accommodations range from cozy 4-bed rooms to more communal spaces with 6 or even 24 beds. Given the compact nature of these areas, it’s important to maintain a clean personal space and ensure the aisles remain clear for easy passage.
I can’t tell you how many times I saw bare butts on my journey. I remember turning the corner at one refuge and I was greeted by an old man standing in his underwear, bare belly in all his wonderful glory. He greeted me with an enthusiastic “CIAO!” My husband jokes with me about this ” You finally got to spend the night with an Italian man”
If you are the least bit modest, you can change in the bathrooms. I know some cultures are vastly different from others, and that’s okay. There’s space for you too!
Private Rooms
Some Rifugi offer the option to book entire rooms, not just beds, which can lead to a significant cost difference. Opting for just a bed can be more economical at times. Prices for these accommodations can vary, and they go up price, considering you are paying for a whole room vs just a bed in a dormitory. You might be looking at €70 to 80. This is with halfboard. Trust me after seeing the bare bellied man in his underwear I went downstairs to look it up. Best advice: Google can be your friend if you need to price it out.
Shared bathrooms are a frequent occurrence. Showers might not always be accessible at more remote locations, or they may require an extra charge.
Bathroom Facilities
Ensuite Bathrooms
Rifugio Scotoni had en-suite bathrooms for a few of their dormitory-style rooms. Therefore, the bathroom experience varies significantly.
Coin Showers:
At certain Rifugios, such as Rifugio Genova/Schlüterhütte, you need to buy a special coin for the showers. Specifically, you can get this coin at the bar for around 3 euros. Furthermore, the showers are located on the second floor, and there’s a specific slot in the payment box for your coin. As soon as you activate the shower, your time starts ticking, and you have about 2-3 minutes of hot water before it runs out. Consequently, this often leads to some funny exchanges and camaraderie in the hallway, as everyone roots for one another to beat the clock!
Rifugio Firenze added your shower total at the end of your stay.
At Rifugio Pederu, the showers are modern with frosted glass, which may not offer much privacy. For those who are more private, it’s worth noting that you might be on display. But rest assured, it’s a common setup and generally, no one pays any mind.
Food at the Rifugios
One of my favorite aspects of staying in a Rifugio was the food, which was a delightful fusion of traditional, robust South Tyrolean fare and Italian cuisine. It was truly magnificent to savor after a day spent hiking.
- Meals: Many rifugios offer half-board (dinner and breakfast) or you can go a la carte! If you book through an agency like bookatrekking, they’ll let you know which options you get. If you end up with a La Carte, note that prices can range anywhere from €8.00 to €20.00. I did see steaks going for about €28.00 or higher.
- Breakfast is served from 0700-0900am
- Dinner is served from 1830-2100
- Traditional Food: You’ll find things like South Tyrol Dumplings, Tris Di Canederli, Polenta, Pasta, and of course Apfelstrudel. One of my favorite meals I had was at Rifugio Genova/ Schlüterhütte, Delicious South Tyrolian Speck Dumplings with Mushrooms.
- Breakfast is your usual European-style layout with cold cuts, bread, hardboiled eggs, jams, and sweets. Yogurt is also a big option with muesli and granola.
- Gluten Free: I noticed that many Rifugios have gluten-free options and you can even email the Rifugio to see what they have or what precautions they take. I always advise folks to send a message first!
- Packed Lunches: The cost of a packed lunch for the following day can range from €5 to €10. For instance, at Rifugio Pederu, they prepared a packed lunch for my next day’s journey. It contained an apple, a croissant, and two delightful small sandwiches with ham, pickle, and cheese. I collected it after breakfast, but it’s advisable to inform them the night before, if you desire a packed lunch.
What to Pack for Your Rifugio Stay
When packing for a hut-to-hut hike, it’s crucial to keep your load light due to the considerable distance you’ll be trekking. Here are some essentials that you’ll want to pack.
Sleeping Bag Liner & Pillowcase
Many rifugi require you to carry your own linens, primarily for hygiene purposes. Some rifugi offer sheet rentals for a fee of €4-5. To make it easier on staff, just bring your own.
Shower Shoes
Make sure you have a pair of lightweight shoes on you to switch into at the hut or in the shower. I used my Keen sandals, lightweight and easy to pack.
Microfiber Towel
This came in handy for me, I highly suggest bringing one. I always let it air dry by hanging it on the end of the bunk bed and it created a little curtain for me while sleeping (ask your bunkmates if this is okay)
Passport
I’ve encountered several Rifugios who have asked me for my passport. If you have a hotel on the front or backend you’ll probably need this any ways!
Headlamp
Useful for navigating at night but also for a nightlight while in the room. My first night on the AV2, my bunkmates woke up at 0430am and had these to navigate the room.
Cash
Some rifugios don’t accept cards. Make sure you have coins and bills as well. For both my Alta Via hikes, I made sure to at least have €150.00 in cash.
Toiletries
Essentials like shampoo, dry shampoo, toothpaste, deoderant and body wash. Some Rifugi had soap that you could dispense.
Earplugs
Dormitory-style rooms mean shared space. Some rifugios had these for sale, I can’t remember what specific ones. It’s just best to bring it with you.
Snacks
I made it a point to pack snacks for my hike because the breakfasts never really filled me up. Granola bars and beef jerky worked as a great addition to the packed lunch.
Etiquette and Respect
- Quiet Hours: “Hüttenruhe” is a German term meaning quiet time or lights out. This period begins at 10 pm, and it’s important to be considerate. During a stay at a rifugio, I experienced two guests who disregarded the 10 pm rule, keeping our dorm awake late into the night, which was quite disruptive.
- Opening Windows: It can get downright hot in the rooms, especially when there are 8-24 people in a tiny space. As a courtesy, ask all your roommates if it is okay to open the windows to let air in.
- Checking in: Arrive at your Rifugio slightly before 6 pm. If you have a signal, call ahead if you anticipate being late. This way, they won’t give your room to someone else who needs accommodation. Rest assured, rifugios won’t turn you away; they will accommodate you if you need shelter.
- Something I like to add to this is, the earlier you get there the faster you’ll get your bunk assignment. I always opt for a bottom bunk so I try to get to the hut early. Raise your hand if you are terrified of falling off a bunk in the middle of the night, HI!
- You always check in at the bar and then go from there.
- Remove Your Boots: You will often find designated areas on the ground floor or in the basement for storing your boots. Additionally, slippers are provided for your use. Furthermore, some huts are equipped with boot warmers to keep your footwear warm while they hang up – it’s a pleasant touch! Notably, Rifugio Scotoni and Pederu offer this amenity.
Conclusion
Make the most of your time in the Dolomites and observe the unique characteristics of each rifugio. Hut to hut hiking is a unique experience that I think everyone should experience. Hopefully this helped you out! Let me know in the comments below!
Hey! Thanks for creating this! I’m a bit nervous about my first stay at a Rifugio next year but I think after reading this I’ll be set!