Almabtrieb in the Dolomites: How to Experience South Tyrol’s Autumn Cattle Drive
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Planning a fall trip to the Dolomites? Donโt skip the Almabtriebโa traditional alpine cattle drive where flower-crowned cows parade through South Tyrolโs most stunning scenery.
The Almabtrieb in Compatsch, also called the Almabtrieb or Desmontegada, is one of the most authentic cultural festivals in the Dolomites.
In this travel guide, Iโll show you:
- Exactly when and where the Almatreib takes place
- How to attend (even if you donโt speak Italian or German!)
- What foods to try, where to stay, and how to make it a weekend to remember
If youโre craving a slower, seasonal travel experience in the Dolomitesโone most tourists missโthis is it.
What is the Almabtrieb?
The Almabtrieb is an annual autumn cattle drive celebrated throughout the alpine regions of Austria, Switzerland, and Italy.
In South Tyrol (Alto Adige), itโs known by a few names depending on the region: Almabtrieb in the German-speaking parts and Desmontegada in the Ladin valleys.
Historically, it marks the end of the summer grazing season.
Cows are herded down from their high-altitude pastures (malgas or alms) where theyโve spent the summer feeding on wild herbs and grasses.
If no cows are lost during the seasonโa good omenโtheyโre decorated with wreaths, mirrors, and cowbells and led through the villages in a celebratory parade.
This isnโt a reenactment or tourist performance.
Itโs a living tradition, still part of the rhythm of rural life in the Dolomites. And experiencing it in Compatsch on Alpe di Siusi is especially magical.
Where and When Does the Almabtrieb in the Dolomites Happen?
Location: Compatsch (Alpe di Siusi/Seiser Alm), South Tyrol, Italy
Timing: Late September to early October
The Compatsch event typically takes place the last weekend of September, but check local tourism boards like Seiser Alm Marketing or Sรผdtirol.info for exact dates each year. Other Almabtreib or Desmontegada events take place around Val Gardena, Val di Fassa, and Trentino.
How to Attend the Almabtreib in South Tyrol
I drove up early that morning and checked into our hotel, and then drove to the Seiser Alm/Alpe di Siusi cable car in Siusi allo Sciliar.
From there, you can take the cable car to Compatsch.
Tips for attending:
Note that if you are attending the Almabtreib in Compatsch that they donโt allow cars on the road during specific periods on Alpe Di Siuisi, please start your research here
- Arrive early: cows are typically herded down mid-morning, and festivities start at 10 am
- Dress in layers: September weather in the Dolomites changes fast.
- Cash is king: Bring euros for food and local crafts.
- Expect dogs and kids: Itโs a family-friendly event, but keep dogs on leash.
The main parade begins near the meadow and winds its way through the town. Locals sell speck, cheese, homemade desserts, and hot drinks. Thereโs often a small market with regional crafts.
And yes, it gets crowded, but not overwhelmingly so. Most visitors are local families or travelers in the know.
Staying in Alpe Di Siusi/Seiser Alm Hotel Ortler in Castelrotto
I stayed nearby at Hotel Ortler in Castelrotto, a charming Alpine hotel that has hearty breakfasts and makes a great base for both the Almabtreib and hiking in Alpe di Siusi.
I honestly wish I had taken more pictures for you, so you could see how cozy it was and how amazing that panoramic view in the dining room was!
Why I loved it:
- Easy drive to the Siusi cable car
- Cozy rooms with balconies and stunning views
While this was not within walking distance of Compatsch, consider booking a hotel near the event on Alpe Di Siusi, well in advanceโrooms fill quickly during Almabtreib weekend.
If this doesnโt tickle your fancy, or Hotel Ortler happens to be booked then here is a map of the Alpe Di Suisi area, where you can find something that works for you!
Foods and Festivities to Expect at a Desmontegada in South Tyrol
The food is reason enough to attend. I can remember biting into the most delicious Krapfen here, did I take pictures, no, because you know what? I wanted to EAT!
- Speck sandwiches
- Tirtlan (fried pastries filled with spinach or sauerkraut)
- Strauben (a spiral-shaped fried dough topped with powdered sugar)
- Apfelstrudel and Krapfen
- Mulled wine (Vin Brulรจ) and herbal schnapps
Locals will walk around in their traditional Ladin clothing, serving you delicious herbal concoctions, schnapps from a small barrel. Itโs free, but you definitely should tip them!
There are often small music stages where local bands play alpine folk songs, and kids run around in wool vests and feathered Tyrolean hats.
The whole event feels like an alpine harvest festival meets pastoral parade.
My favorite takeaway from all this was that you started to realize just how special these cows were to local farmers.
A few days prior, I had been out hiking on a trail in Alta Badia and as I was coming around the bend, farmers were actually rounding up and sorting out their cows! It was quite cool!
The Deeper Meaning of the almatreib in the Dolomites: A Living Ladin Tradition
Beyond the festive feel, the Almatreib is deeply rooted in Ladin culture, which predates even the Roman Empire. In a time of fast travel and social media overload, seeing families and farmers celebrate seasonal transitions with such care and intention is grounding.
The tradition honors the mountain, the herd, and the work of shepherds. It reminds you that in some parts of the world, nature and community still hold center stage.
Other Cattle Drive/Almabtrieb Festivals in the Dolomites
If youโre traveling later in the season or miss the Compatsch Almabtrieb event, here are a few others:
Val di Funes Almabtrieb โ gorgeous backdrop with the Odle mountains
Desmontegada in Fiera di Primiero โ often paired with a cheese festival
Desmontegada de le Vache in Predazzo (Trentino) โ early October
Before I lived in Italy, I didnโt know this tradition even existed here (yes, even in ABRUZZO!!).
Now, itโs one of the most joyful travel memories Iโve madeโone where time slows down, cows wear flower crowns, and you feel like part of something ancient and beautiful (I mean, come on!)
If youโre planning a fall trip to the Dolomites, do not skip the Almatreib in Compatsch.
Whether youโre a hiker, cultural traveler, or just craving something real, this is it.
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